Right now just the basic shapes and the vertex normals. maybe for Art of Illusion, since I'm more familiar with Java.Īre the materials and colors exportable, or only textures? I'm sure it can be done, it's just that I'm not comfortable enough with Erlang to even try it. X lets you define a material or texture in two ways: either "inline" (inside a single object which gets that material) or "by reference" (as a standalone segment inside the file which can be referred to by name from any object, thus allowing multiple objects to share the same material). X format isn't as cut-and-dried as some other formats there are lots of possible ways of representing the same thing that I'd have to account for, so any importer would have to either be able to deal with all those situations, or be limited in what files it could import.įor instance. I am firmly on one side of that line!Īn importer? I kinda doubt it. ![]() There is a fine line between Genius and Insanity. That's no space station - it's a spreadsheet! Use the new "DirectX (.x)" menu items under File|Export and File|Export-Selected. Place the beam file there and restart Wings. Go to that shortcut, then to the import_export directory. Instructions: When you installed Wings you should have got a plugins shortcut under your wings directory. Well here's a preliminary version - can't export textures yet (all objects are gray), and I haven't done much testing, but it does create valid DirectX files Posted: Tue 12:37 am Post subject: Wings 3D. Profile :: Log in to check your private messages :: Log in X Export Plugin :: View topic Forum FAQ :: Search :: Memberlist :: Usergroups :: The replacement software for this site will use a unified account system with PBW2, and any newly created threads will carry over. In the meantime, please use the PBW2 Forums for community discussions. This will ensure a sharp trailing edge.This site is in archival mode. Use glue to attach it to the trailing edge on the ribs cut to size and add tape to join the upper and lower skin together. Once the skin is attached to the leading edge, wrap it around the wing and fix it to the trailing edge. The ribs are thicker at the front and back to increase the contact surface and increase the bond strength. Align the fold with the leading edge and glue it in place. The extra length can be left to increase the wingspan or folded up to form wingtips. The extra thickness can be cut off later. Cut it wider and longer than what you need, then fold it in two. You can cover each wing with a single rectangular piece of material. If you don't want removable wings, it will be easier to cover the wing after the whole structure is glued in place (the ribs glued to the spars and the spars glued to the main body). NB: Once the wings are covered by the skin, it is a bit harder to attach them to the body. Paper seems to work well but feel free to experiment with other materials. You'll need to add the skin to the wings. Changing the position of the tube allows you to easily change the center of mass of the glider, which is crucial for a good flight performance (more about this in the stability section below). Do not glue the tube to the center body until you have actually tested the glider. For the tube, you could use a fancy carbon fiber tube, but a paper straw has worked well for me. To complete the body, you will need to add a tube and the tail. NB: Be careful while handling the spars even though they can withstand a relatively large distributed vertical load, the truss elements are very thin and might get crushed by a localized compression. ![]() Once the hole is aligned with the slit in the body you'll know that the spar has been fully inserted. The two spars are identical but note that only one end of each spar has a hole for the pin. Otherwise, you can glue the spar directly on the body. If you want to be able to disassemble the glider, you can use a small removable pin to lock them in place. ![]() The spars should fit tightly in the center element.
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